This is not just another Istria guide. When you think of Istria, the first image that probably comes to mind is the sea.
Beautiful coastal towns, swimming, little restaurants by the water and long summer evenings. And yes, Istria has all of that.
But some of my favorite parts of the region are actually inland.
I visited Istria on a road trip in spring, moving between little hilltop towns, vineyards, olive groves and the coast. The roads themselves were part of the experience – beautiful views seemed to appear around every corner, and the landscape changed just enough to make you want to stop the car again and again.
There is something particularly nice about exploring Istria this way. You don’t necessarily need a strict itinerary. Pick a few places, get in the car and see where the day takes you.
If you’re planning an Istria trip and want to see more than just the seaside, these are some of the places and experiences I’d put on your list.
Hum: the tiniest town worth stopping for
Hum is one of those places that makes you wonder whether you’ve accidentally driven into a film set.
It is officially promoted by Istria’s tourism board as the smallest town in the world, and once you arrive, it’s easy to understand why. The medieval settlement is tiny, enclosed by stone walls and entered through an old town gate. Inside, there are just a handful of streets and buildings, but somehow enough little details to make you want to wander around slowly rather than simply tick it off your list.
It has that almost fairytale-like feeling I loved so much when I visited.
There are a few small places to stop for food or a drink, souvenir shops and plenty of stone architecture to look at as you walk around.
And if you enjoy local drinks, Hum has an interesting connection to biska, a traditional Istrian brandy made with mistletoe. The town is known as the Town of Biska, and the tradition is closely connected to Hum.
I also had a cocktail with Teranino while I was there, a sweet Istrian liqueur made by Aura, an Istrian distillery known for its range of fruit and herb-based spirits and liqueurs.
If you’re interested in local drinks and want to explore further, Aura has its distillery in Buzet, which would make a nice addition to an inland Istria road trip.
Hum was also one of the places I included in my list of beautiful European towns worth slowing down for, so you can read more about Hum and the other places here.
Motovun: views, stone walls and a very Istrian lunch
Motovun is probably one of the places I’d put high on the list for a first inland Istria road trip.
The medieval hilltop town rises above the Mirna Valley, surrounded by the landscape that makes central Istria so beautiful. The old town is small enough to explore on foot, with stone streets, old buildings and little shops tucked inside the historic walls.
But for me, one of the best parts is simply sitting somewhere with a view. Find a little restaurant or café, order something local and take your time.
Istria is particularly famous for truffles, and the area around the Mirna Valley and Motovun is one of the places where that connection becomes very obvious. Truffles appear everywhere in local food and in the little shops selling Istrian products.
And yes, you can take some home. If you are a truffle person, this is the place to give in completely.
Grožnjan: a tiny town full of art
Grožnjan has a completely different personality.
It is another small hilltop town, but instead of feeling primarily medieval and romantic, it has a distinctly artistic atmosphere.
There are galleries, little shops and interesting things to look at almost everywhere you turn. You don’t really need a plan here. Just walk around, look inside the galleries and shops and enjoy the architecture.
It’s the kind of place where a short stop can easily turn into a couple of hours because you keep finding another little street or another shop you want to see.
And that is one of my favorite things about inland Istria: the places are small, but they don’t feel like attractions you have to rush through.
Leave some room for wine, truffles and olive oil
One of the best reasons to explore Istria by car is that food and drink are part of the landscape.
You drive past vineyards.
Then olive groves.
Then another little sign pointing towards a family farm or winery.
And eventually you realize that you should probably stop trying to fit everything into a schedule.
Istria is particularly known for its truffles, wine and olive oil, so I’d leave some space in your itinerary for all three.
You can find truffle products in shops all over the region. In Hum, I even came across a jar of chocolate-hazelnut spread with truffle, which was such an unexpectedly Istrian souvenir that I couldn’t leave without trying it.
Wine is another easy one.
If you see a winery along your route and have the time, stop.
There are plenty of beautiful wineries throughout the region, and I think a tasting is one of the nicest ways to experience the landscape rather than simply drive past it.
And then there is olive oil.
Take your time with Istrian olive oil
One of the experiences I really enjoyed was stopping at Chiavalon Extra Virgin Olive Oil near Vodnjan.
I didn’t book a guided tasting in advance, so my visit was more spontaneous than the experiences they currently offer by reservation. I was still able to discover their olive oil and spend some time in a beautiful setting surrounded by the groves.
What I loved about the experience was how much more interesting olive oil becomes when you actually slow down and taste it properly.
Before this, I probably thought of olive oil mostly as an ingredient. Tasting different varieties makes you notice how much character it can have – the aroma, bitterness, pepperiness and how it works with food.
Chiavalon is a family olive-growing and olive-oil-producing estate just outside Vodnjan. Their more structured tasting experiences include a walk through the olive grove, a visit to the mill and a guided tasting of their extra virgin olive oils. Some programs also include traditional local food and Istrian Malvasia, but those experiences need to be booked in advance.
So if you’re interested, check their tasting options and book ahead rather than doing what I did and simply turning up.
The setting alone makes it worth considering, especially if you enjoy food experiences that tell you something about the place you’re visiting.
Don’t skip a proper Istrian meal
If you want one meal that I’d specifically recommend, make it at Konoba Stari Podrum.
The setting is beautiful, the food is exactly the kind of traditional Istrian cooking you hope to find on a trip like this, and it feels like a place where the meal is meant to be enjoyed rather than rushed.
I’d check ahead and make a reservation, especially during busier periods.
Rovinj: the coast is worth the drive
After all that inland exploring, Rovinj feels like a completely different side of Istria.
It is on the coast, beautiful and lively, with narrow streets, little shops, restaurants and views over the Adriatic.
It is also hillier than you might expect. Bring comfortable shoes, preferably ones with a good grip, because this is definitely not the place to test how long you can survive in uncomfortable sandals or heels.
Rovinj is polished without feeling completely removed from its surroundings. There are plenty of souvenir shops and more stylish stores too, and you can easily spend a few hours just walking around and stopping whenever something catches your eye.
One of my favorite little spots was Mediterraneo, a café-bar right by the sea. It’s the kind of place that makes sense for a drink when you don’t really want to do anything else except look at the water.
And if you want somewhere quieter for a swim, look beyond the old town.
The islands just off Rovinj offer a completely different experience: more greenery, calmer surroundings and the chance to spend some time in nature and the water rather than among the town’s streets.
If you have time, this is one of those places where I’d leave part of the day completely unplanned.
Rovinj was also one of the places I included in 7 beautiful places to visit in Europe, so you can find more of my recommendations there.
The best part might be the road itself
One of the things I didn’t expect to enjoy so much was simply driving around Istria.
The landscape is beautiful, and because the inland towns sit among hills, vineyards, forests and olive groves, the journey between places never feels like wasted time.
You also see plenty of people cycling around the region, and I can completely understand why.
If you enjoy cycling, Istria seems like a particularly lovely place to explore at a slower pace. There are routes through the countryside, between hilltop towns and along the coast, so you can make the journey itself part of the experience.
And if you’re driving, resist the temptation to make every stop efficient. This is not really a region that rewards rushing.
A few things I’d leave on your Istria list
If you’re planning your own Istria trip, these are the things I’d make room for:
- Hum for its tiny, almost fairytale-like old town
- Motovun for the views, truffles and hilltop atmosphere
- Grožnjan for art galleries and little shops
- A local winery or wine tasting
- An olive oil tasting
- Something – anything – with truffles
- A proper Istrian lunch or dinner
- Rovinj for the coast, old town and sea views
- A quiet swim somewhere away from the busiest parts of the coast
- A slow road trip through the countryside
And leave some room for the things you don’t plan.
That’s probably my biggest piece of advice for Istria.
Istria is more than a summer beach destination
I visited Istria in spring, which may have actually been the perfect time for the kind of trip I wanted.
It was green, the roads were beautiful, the little towns weren’t overwhelmed by summer crowds and there was enough time to stop for lunch, wine, coffee or a random shop without constantly thinking about the next place on the itinerary.
Of course, Istria’s coastline is beautiful, and I’d happily go back for the sea too.
But the part that stayed with me was everything in between.
The stone towns, vineyards, olive groves, truffles, local food, winding roads and views that make you want to pull over for no particular reason.
Maybe that’s what I like most about Istria: it doesn’t ask you to choose between a road trip and a seaside escape. You can have both — and take your time doing it.
And maybe that’s the best way to experience Istria in the first place: leave enough room in the itinerary to stop when something catches your eye.
That feels very much like the kind of travel I want more of.
And very much like that bare feeling.
Keep reading
7 beautiful places to visit in Europe
A collection of small European towns and cities worth slowing down for, including Hum and Rovinj.
Beautiful places in Ortigia, Sicily
Another Mediterranean destination for when the best part of a trip is simply wandering, eating and taking your time.
How I learned to travel with only a carry-on
Because the best road trips usually feel better when you’re not carrying your entire wardrobe with you.
